Over the holiday season, I went on a search for information on my father’s ancestors who first landed in historical Charleston, South Carolina. While visiting Charleston, I fell in love with this beautiful seaside city full of charm, history and grace. My father’s family has a long history of being involved with Charleston. However, I never experienced the city as an adult and had not been back in Charleston in over 30+ years. Though the trip started as a search for a family past, it quickly became a chance to discover this unique and lovely city and explore all it has to offer.
Family History
While we all have multiple grandparents and great grandparents, my family name comes from a gentleman by the name of Thomas Carey. He was my great-great grandfather who landed in Charleston in the late 1840s. He escaped Ireland with his four brothers and came to the New World seeking a better life. They wanted a life free of hunger, oppression and cultural prejudice at the hands of their British masters at the end of the great Irish Potato Famine.
The other three brothers ended up landing in New York City. Their histories and whereabouts are lost to the mists of time. For some unknown reason, Thomas and another brother decided to try their luck in Charleston. In doing so, they left behind him possible starvation, grinding poverty, religious and cultural prejudice. He also left behind possible genocide by a Protestant British government against their Irish Catholic subjects in the United Kingdom.
Now times were not any easier for my great-great grandfather in Charleston than they were in the United Kingdom. On a social scale in Pre-Civil War Charleston, Irish Catholics were only slightly above freed African Americans and slaves. They were Catholic in a Protestant city. Most of the time they were not well educated, and popular assumptions were that the only things they could do well were farm, drink and sing songs. Yet this is not a story of how the Irish progressed in American society. This is the story of the Carey family and how they progressed in Charleston. This journey into the past was also not a story of who married whom and where they’re buried. This is more a story of how the Carey family lived and worked in historical Charleston.
Thomas Carey’s Life in Charleston
Little is known about what part of Ireland Thomas came from and what his skill set may have been. All I managed to find out is that not long after he arrived he purchased a three-story building at 25 Queen St. The building was just behind the French Huguenot Church on Church St. He opened a bar on the ground floor, and his family lived on the two top floors. Along the way, he also became a stereotypical Irish cop walking a beat in Charleston and later a night watchman.
Thomas is remarkable for two things in terms of family history. First, he managed to fight in all five battles that took place around Charleston during the Civil War. This included the attack on Fort Sumter and the battle that was made famous in the movie “Glory” starring Denzel Washington and Morgan Freeman. Second, he also started a tradition that would last for four generations of Carey men. They only married Irish Catholic girls. Because of this, my DNA according to Ancestry.com is 60% Irish even though the Carey family has been here for over four generations. My father was the first Carey male to marry someone who was not of Irish descent and outside the Catholic faith. He married my mother, who was the daughter of a Presbyterian minister.
James John Carey, Great Grandfather
Thomas married a good Irish Catholic girl, and they had several children including a son by the name of James John, who is my great grandfather. James John grew up in Charleston and became a very successful business owner. He made his fortune installing gas lighting in people’s homes and along the streets of Charleston. He was so successful that he became an Alderman, which was unusual for an Irish Catholic to accomplish in Charleston at that time. With his success, he bought a building at 157 King St. which was the most prominent street in Charleston. His plumbing and pipe business was located on the first floor and his family lived above. He and his wife Jennie Devine had three daughters and one son. The son was George Thomas Carey, my grandfather. James John passed away very young, at age 36.
George Thomas Carey, Grandfather
My grandfather was raised in Charleston and met my grandmother, Anna Sylveria Reynolds. At some point, George and Sylveria moved to Charlotte, NC, and raised five children there. In leaving Charleston, George became the last Carey male namesake to live in Charleston. His three sisters stayed in the Charleston area, and I have many cousins that live there. However, when I was very young an estrangement occurred between my mother and my father’s brothers and sisters. What caused it, why it happened no one can remember, yet it was there. When my father passed when I was in my early teens, the Carey family connections just faded into the background of my life. Now many years later I’m trying to pick up some of those threads. This trip to Charleston was part of that family journey.
Exploring Charleston
Yet, the weekend was more than old addresses and digging into family history. Charleston is a beautiful, historic and very walkable city filled with restaurants, bars, shops, art galleries, theaters, and music venues. The center historical section of Charleston is the Peninsula, which has the Ashley River on one side and the Cooper River on the other.
At its widest, the peninsula is 15 blocks wide and south of Mary Street. It is 20 blocks to world-famous Battery Park where the Civil War started. Within those blocks is a very walkable section of the city. You can reach any part in less than 30 minutes on foot. It contains history that dates back to the early 1700s.
Explore Charleston’s Historic Homes
Charleston offers a glimpse into its rich past through an array of beautifully preserved historic homes. These residences once belonged to wealthy planters, showcasing both the grandeur of the era and the unique architectural styles that define the city.
Must-Visit Historic Homes
- Edmonston-Alston House: Positioned strategically within the historic district, this house provides panoramic views of Charleston Harbor while revealing intriguing stories of the past.
- Nathaniel Russell House: Known for its elegant spiral staircase and intricate ornamentation, this home exemplifies Federal architecture at its finest.
- Aiken-Rhett House: Staying true to historical integrity, this residence offers an immersive experience that highlights antebellum life, complete with original outbuildings and artifacts.
Explore the Heart of Charleston
All these homes are conveniently located within walking distance from each other, making it easy to explore the broader historic district. By visiting these storied residences, visitors can delve into Charleston‘s vibrant history and experience the lifestyle of its previous inhabitants firsthand.
Discovering Charleston’s Premier Plantation Tours
Exploring the historic plantations in Charleston offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich past. One of the best areas to immerse yourself in this history is along the Ashley River Road, home to several notable plantations.
Top Picks for Plantation Visits:
- Middleton Place: Renowned for its stunning landscaped gardens, Middleton Place offers a journey through America’s oldest landscaped gardens, the main house, and exhibits that highlight the plantation’s pivotal history.
- Drayton Hall: Unique in its preservation, Drayton Hall remains untouched by modern restoration, providing an authentic look at an 18th-century plantation. Its architectural integrity and expansive grounds make it a must-see.
- Magnolia Plantation and Gardens: Recognized for its diverse attractions, Magnolia Plantation and Gardens features lush gardens, a charming petting zoo, a captivating butterfly house, and restored slave cabins. A guided tour of the main house adds to the experience.
Venturing Further Afield:
If you’re ready for a short drive from Charleston, Hampton Plantation in McClellanville awaits. This plantation stands out with its classical architectural style and serene setting. Notably, it was once the home of South Carolina’s first Poet Laureate, Archibald Rutledge. Its relative seclusion ensures a peaceful visit, away from the crowds.
Together, these plantations offer a comprehensive view of Charleston’s historical landscape, making them prime choices for anyone eager to explore the area’s heritage.
Discover Charleston’s Culinary Delights through These Food Tours
Charlestonians revel in their food, their art, their architecture, culture, and history. Charleston offers a plethora of culinary experiences that showcase its rich history and vibrant food scene. Here are two must-try food tours that promise an unforgettable taste of the city:
Trendy Upper King Street Culinary Adventure
Explore one of Charleston’s most dynamic neighborhoods with a food tour that takes you through Upper King Street. After the devastation of Hurricane Hugo in 1989, this area transformed from a state of disrepair to a bustling hub of gastronomy by the early 2000s. Today, it boasts a diverse selection of delightful eateries, each offering unique and delicious dishes. You’ll have the chance to savor the innovative flavors and culinary creativity of this trendy district.
Farm to Table Experience
For a more hands-on approach, consider a farm-to-table tour that begins at Charleston’s renowned Saturday farmers market. Participants hand-pick from an array of fresh local produce, guided by experts who know the region’s best offerings. The selected ingredients are then taken to a skilled local chef, who crafts a bespoke five-course meal tailored just for the group. This tour not only offers a delectable meal but also immerses you in the local farm-to-table culture, making it a uniquely Charleston experience.
Both options provide a distinct perspective on the city’s culinary landscape, ensuring a feast for your senses. Whether you’re a food enthusiast or simply curious about Charleston’s flavors, these tours are a perfect way to explore the heart of Southern cuisine.
Classically Southern Restaurants in Charleston
If you’re craving authentic Southern flavors while visiting Charleston, you’re in for a treat. Here’s a guide to some must-visit spots that will satisfy your soul food cravings:
- Downtown Delights: Kick off your culinary journey with some staple dishes at a quintessential downtown eatery. Try a fried green tomato BLT, indulge in crab cakes, or savor the creamy richness of ham macaroni and cheese.
- Seafood Essentials: Head up to Awendaw for a taste of the coast with a plate of fried flounder. Pair it with classic potato salad and finish off with a homemade dessert for the full experience.
- Southern Comfort: For a blend of hearty and homey, cross over to Mount Pleasant where chicken and waffles make the perfect meal. Vegetarians won’t be left out with a plentiful veggie platter ensuring everyone’s satisfied.
- Biscuits to Remember: No Southern food journey is complete without a bite into a fluffy biscuit. Make your way back downtown for a cheese and chive variety that’s sure to leave an impression.
Whether you’re a local or just passing through, these spots offer a taste of the South that captures Charleston’s rich culinary heritage.
Top Fancy Dining Options in Charleston
If you’re planning a special night out in Charleston, you’re in for a treat. This charming city boasts a variety of exquisite dining establishments that promise a memorable culinary experience.
- Prime Steak Spots: For those who appreciate a perfectly cooked steak, Charleston’s downtown is home to venues renowned for their exceptional cuts. Pair your steak with a creamy corn casserole, a local favorite that is sure to delight your taste buds.
- Sophisticated Starters: One downtown restaurant offers a filet mignon that melts in your mouth alongside a uniquely Southern appetizer of pimento cheese and tomato, which is a must-try for visitors wanting to savor authentic Southern flavors.
- Decadent Desserts: Don’t miss the opportunity to indulge in a slice of a famous coconut cake at one of the city’s premier grills. Known for its decadent layers and rich flavors, it’s the perfect sweet conclusion to your fine dining experience.
Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply wish to enjoy an upscale meal, these options promise to deliver an unforgettable evening of taste and elegance in Charleston.
I found modern-day Charleston, which is very tourist-friendly, to be diverse, culturally rich, very upscale, and friendly in its southern hospitality. My partner and I snagged a very comfortable and affordable hotel room at the Hampton Inn, which is part of the Hilton chain of hotels on the corner of Meeting and John Streets. The hotel also served a delicious breakfast in the morning for free. There are more expensive and luxurious hotels within the center section of Charleston, but this was perfect for us by meeting our budget. We were one block away from King Street, which is the economic tourist center of the city.
Discover Charleston’s Nearby Hotel Gems
Charleston’s historic district is undeniably charming, but stepping just outside its core can lead you to some excellent accommodation options that offer both convenience and affordability. If you’re open to a short drive, you’ll find great spots in Mount Pleasant and West Ashley.
Mount Pleasant
Crossing over the Ravenel Bridge brings you to Mount Pleasant, where you’ll find a range of lodging choices. One standout is a well-known hotel chain offering easy access to both the historic district and picturesque barrier islands. This location is perfect for families, being near the newly developed Waterfront Park, which features a vibrant playground, a tackle shop for those interested in fishing, and a scenic pier.
West Ashley
Heading over the Ashley River Bridge to West Ashley, you’ll encounter a unique circular hotel with sweeping views of the Charleston Marina. This hotel is not only budget-friendly compared to downtown options but also boasts inviting outdoor pools and plentiful parking spaces. However, keep in mind that staying here might require renting a car for easy city exploration and navigating Charleston’s downtown parking when sightseeing.
These out-of-the-way hotels present a delightful mix of cost savings, convenience, and comfort, perfect for travelers eager to experience Charleston without breaking the bank.
Essential Tips for Your Charleston Visit
Consider the Tour Options
If you’re torn between a horse-and-buggy tour and a pedicab ride, here’s what to keep in mind:
- Horse-and-Buggy Tours: These popular tours might slow down traffic and add a unique aroma to the streets, but they’re also packed with fascinating insights. The guides are highly trained and offer a dynamic way to see more than you would on foot. However, be aware of ongoing discussions about the well-being of the horses, especially during the scorching summer months.
- Pedicabs: They’re a modern alternative, though local regulations currently prevent drivers from acting as tour guides. It’s a quicker, more leisurely ride but without the benefit of in-depth commentary.
Clarifying the City Market
Contrary to some misconceptions, the City Market has never been a site for slave trading. Instead, it was a bustling hub where enslaved people sold goods and shopped for their masters. If you’re keen to learn about the darker chapters of the past, visit the Old Slave Mart Museum. Meanwhile, the City Market today offers a vibrant array of souvenirs, including local handicrafts and iconic sweetgrass baskets.
Navigating Upper King Street
Upper King Street has transformed significantly over the past decade and a half. While it’s generally safe during daylight, exercise caution after dark, particularly north of Line Street near the Ravenel Bridge. Stick to well-lit main roads for the safest experience. In contrast, popular areas like Lower King, East Bay, and Meeting Streets are secure at any time, so explore freely.
Experience the Ravenel Bridge
For breathtaking views of Charleston, walk or bike across the Ravenel Bridge. Accessible from both downtown and Mount Pleasant, it’s a favorite spot for panoramic vistas. Remember to secure your vehicle and hide any valuables, particularly on the downtown end.
Embrace the Charm of Wandering
Charleston reveals its true character best on foot. Stroll through historic areas like the Battery and Rainbow Row, and don’t miss the elegant streets such as Queen Street and Tradd Street. The architecture is stunning, from St. Phillip’s Church to opulent homes South of Broad. Let yourself meander through the charming alleys and capture the essence of this unique city.
We walked a lot tracking down old family addresses, going to art galleries, and finding wonderful off-the-beaten-track restaurants and neighborhood bars. There was still so much more to do. We didn’t even leave the peninsula to go to the other really enjoyable areas of Charleston. For a journey into the historical past and for food that is the equal of New Orleans, I cannot recommend Charleston enough. We are looking forward to going back soon!
Special Thanks to my second cousins Cliff Roberts and Charles Cansler, my first cousin Carey Roberts, and my sister Emilie Allen for the family information and history, and Laraine Smith for walking over 30 miles in two days as we wandered the streets of Charleston.
copyright 2023 – CAREY-ON CREATIVE,LLC., Atlanta, GA. Tripswithjames.com is a trademark of Carey-On Creative, LLC.
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