I LOVE DUBLIN. “ERIN GO BRAGH”
I have been visiting Ireland and Dublin a total of seven times since 2001. During that period, I have witnessed many changes in this really fascinating city. This was during heady days of the Tech Boom which brought companies like Google, Meta, and others to Dublin looking for an European business base that offered an educated population that spoke English. With them came great paying jobs and massive amounts of money that started to change the landscape of Dublin and Ireland overall. New jobs brought many Irish people back to their homeland, and for the first time in generations, Ireland had positive numbers of people moving into the country instead of leaving. The city boomed and growth and building followed, changing the cityscape of Dublin with modern buildings and urban development.
The city was a non-stop party of new cafes, international people filling jobs at the tech companies, Temple Bar crawls, and the feeling of all things are possible in this ever changing Dublin.
Now today, Dublin is a city in flux—still buzzing with energy and international character, but showing some wear behind the sheen. Nowadays, it seems gritter, more of a struggle, no longer the non-stop party place that brought people from all over Europe to have adventures. Locals reflect with some nostalgia on the cleaner, cheaper, more carefree era of the early 2000s—but they also acknowledge Dublin’s tenacious spirit. Dublin is an ever-changing, ancient, historical city that has been remade time and time again. I cannot wait for what the next Dublin will be like.
A Brief History of Dublin
Dublin’s earliest roots trace back to Celtic clans and distant Roman awareness, with Ptolemy’s map around 140 CE marking a location called Eblana—likely an early reference to Dublin. Though never settled by Rome, archaeological discoveries like coins and pottery reveal active trade with Roman Britain. The city’s story takes shape in 841 CE when Viking invaders established Dyflin (“black pool”) along the River Liffey, creating a powerful settlement and slave market that endured nearly three centuries until Irish High King Brian Boru triumphed at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014. The Normans arrival in 1170, led by Strongbow, transformed Dublin into the center of English authority in Ireland, eventually hosting the Parliament of Ireland in 1297 and fostering the construction of enduring landmarks such as Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
The centuries that followed were marked by upheaval and evolution. Under Tudor and Stuart influence, Dublin became Protestant during the Reformation, experiencing waves of struggle from the Black Death in 1348 to the Cromwellian conquest in 1649. Yet the 18th century ushered in Dublin’s Georgian Golden Age: the city flourished as the British Empire’s second-largest city, showcasing graceful architecture and vibrant culture, including Jonathan Swift’s writings and the premiere of Handel’s Messiah in 1742. Despite its grandeur, social tensions deepened under Penal Laws that suppressed Catholic rights. By the 19th century, Dublin’s influence waned—its Parliament was dissolved in 1801 through the Act of Union, and the Great Famine (1845–49) triggered mass emigration and urban poverty, leaving Dublin’s slums among the worst in Europe.
The 20th century lit a spark of revolution. The 1916 Easter Rising marked a turning point in Ireland’s quest for independence, leading to the establishment of the Irish Free State in 1922—though civil war erupted between factions divided over the treaty. In the decades that followed, Dublin steadily expanded, embracing European Union membership in 1973 and riding waves of economic growth. Today, the city stands revitalized as a cultural and technological capital, drawing international business and tourism while preserving its rich and layered past.
Modern Dublin
The aftermath of its tech boom has reshaped the city’s tone. While giants like Google, Meta, and Microsoft remain firmly rooted in the Docklands, the initial startup spark has dimmed. Job cuts and industry cool-downs have shifted the district’s vibe from the glitter of “Silicon Docks” to a more grounded pace. The champagne years have given way to quieter coffees, as the skyline adjusts to a less feverish rhythm.
At street level, a grittier texture has emerged. Temple Bar and O’Connell Street, central arteries of Dublin life, have seen a rise in rough sleeping, litter, and drug-related challenges. While these changes haven’t made the city unsafe outright, they’ve created a noticeable contrast—gleaming tourist facades brush up against neglected pockets, painting a more complicated portrait of urban life. Yet in the midst of this, Dublin’s soul thrives. Its cultural lifeblood—arts, music, food—keeps flowing through independent venues, street performances, and spirited festivals. From Portobello’s creative heartbeat to Stoneybatter’s grounded charm, the pub culture remains as warm and inclusive as ever.
Dublin’s diversity is more palpable than ever, with more than 20% of residents born outside Ireland. Its linguistic landscape is a symphony of Polish, Portuguese, Mandarin, Arabic, Irish, and English. This multicultural blend gives the city a cosmopolitan beat, even as infrastructure stretches to keep pace. It’s a city that bends but doesn’t break, embracing contradictions and reinventing itself across its eclectic neighborhoods—from historic Georgian quarters to laid-back coastal retreats.
Things to do in Dublin
Dublin is a city that effortlessly weaves history, culture, and a bit of whimsy into its everyday rhythm. It offers something for everyone, both present and past:
Historical & Cultural Landmarks
- Trinity College & The Book of Kells: Marvel at Ireland’s oldest university and its stunning Long Room library. The Book of Kells exhibit is a must-see.
- Kilmainham Gaol: Tour this former prison to learn about Ireland’s fight for independence. It’s haunting and powerful.
- Dublin Castle: A mix of medieval and modern architecture, with beautiful gardens and historical exhibits.
- Christ Church Cathedral & St. Patrick’s Cathedral: Two magnificent churches with centuries of history and gorgeous interiors.
Museums & Galleries
- Chester Beatty Library: A hidden gem with rare manuscripts and art from around the world.
- EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum: An interactive journey through Irish diaspora stories.
- National Gallery of Ireland: Home to works by Caravaggio, Monet, and Irish masters,
- Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA): Contemporary art housed in a historic hospital.
Parks & Outdoor Spaces
- Phoenix Park: One of Europe’s largest urban parks, complete with wild deer and the Dublin Zoo.
- St. Stephen’s Green: A peaceful oasis in the city center, perfect for a picnic or stroll.
Pubs & Local Flavor
- Guinness Storehouse: Learn how the iconic stout is made and enjoy a pint with panoramic views at the Gravity Bar.
- Temple Bar District: Famous for its nightlife, live music, and colorful streets.
- Leo Burdock’s Fish & Chips: A local institution since 1913—grab a bite and eat it near St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
Unique Experiences
- National Leprechaun Museum: Dive into Irish folklore and mythology in a playful, immersive setting.
Where to stay in Dublin
Dublin offers a wide range of accommodations to suit every budget and vibe—from luxurious Georgian townhouses to lively hostels perfect for solo travelers. Here’s a mix of high-end hotels and budget-friendly hostels:
Luxury Hotels in Dublin
These are ideal if you’re looking for elegance, comfort, and top-tier service:
| Hotel Name | Highlights | Area | Rating |
| The Merrion Hotel | Georgian charm, Michelin-starred dining, spa | Merrion Square | ★★★★★ |
| The Shelbourne | Historic landmark, opulent interiors, spa | St. Stephen’s Green | ★★★★★ |
| Anantara The Marker | Rooftop bar, infinity pool, Docklands views | Grand Canal Dock | ★★★★★ |
| The Westbury | Chic decor, great location, afternoon tea | Grafton Street | ★★★★★ |
| Clontarf Castle Hotel | Boutique castle stay, gourmet dining | Clontarf | ★★★★ |
| The Dylan Hotel | Stylish boutique, courtyard bar | Ballsbridge | ★★★★★ |
Budget-Friendly Hostels
Great for backpackers, solo travelers, or anyone looking to save while staying central:
| Hostel Name | Highlights | Area | Rating |
| Ashfield Hostel | Free breakfast, super central | Near Trinity College | ★★★★ |
| Abigail’s Hostel | River views, social vibe | Temple Bar | ★★★★ |
| Jacobs Inn | Pod beds, rooftop bar | Connolly Station | ★★★★ |
| Gardiner House | Converted convent, chill vibe | Northside | ★★★★ |
| Clink i Lár | Modern, social, great location | City Centre | ★★★★ |
| Generator Dublin | Trendy design, bar onsite | Smithfield | ★★★★ |
Places to Eat in Dublin
Dublin’s pub scene might be famous for pints and banter, but it’s also home to some seriously good grub. Here’s a mix of traditional pubs and modern eateries that serve up top-notch Irish and international fare—no soggy chips in sight:
1. The Celt
A cozy, old-school Irish pub with hearty dishes like beef & Guinness stew, fish & chips, and cottage pie. Live music adds to the authentic vibe.
The Celt
2. Fade Street Social
A stylish spot by chef Dylan McGrath offering modern Irish cuisine with flair—think braised beef cheek, wild mushroom risotto, and creative small plates.
Fade Street Social
3. The Stags Head
Historic Victorian pub with a solid food menu—try the Irish stew or their famous toasted sandwiches. Great Guinness and atmosphere.
The Stags Head
4. The Quays Temple Bar
Touristy but tasty—serves classic Irish dishes like lamb shank and seafood chowder, with live music most nights.
The Quays Temple Bar
5. Brannigans
A hidden gem near O’Connell Street with excellent pub food—their roast dinners and fish & chips are local favorites.
Brannigans
6. 1900 Restaurant
Elegant yet relaxed, serving Irish-European fusion—expect dishes like pan-seared scallops, duck breast, and rich risottos.
1900 Restaurant
7. Tang (Dawson Street)
A vibrant café with Middle Eastern-inspired Irish dishes—great for brunch or lunch. Try the flatbreads, shakshuka, or lamb salad.
Tang (Dawson Street)
8. Saba – Baggot Street
Thai and Vietnamese flavors meet Irish ingredients—bold, fresh, and spicy. Their green curry and crispy duck are standouts. Saba – Baggot Street
9. The Brazen Head
Ireland’s oldest pub, serving traditional Irish fare with a side of history. Their Guinness stew and seafood chowder are legendary.
10. L. Mulligan Grocer
Gastropub in Stoneybatter with a seasonal Irish menu and craft beer pairings. Think wild game, artisan cheeses, and inventive desserts.
How to Get to and Around Dublin
Getting to Dublin is a breeze, whether you’re arriving by air, sea, or land. Here’s a breakdown of your options:
By Air: Dublin Airport (DUB)
- Main international gateway to Ireland, located ~10 km north of the city center.
- Serves 196 destinations in 42 countries, including direct flights from North America, Europe, and the Middle East.
- Two terminals: Terminal 1 (mostly Ryanair and short-haul) and Terminal 2 (Aer Lingus and long-haul).
- Airport to city center:
- Aircoach and Dublin Express buses run 24/7.
- Taxi takes ~20–30 minutes.
- No direct train, but buses connect to nearby train stations.
By Ferry
Dublin Port is a major hub for ferries from the UK and Europe:
| Route | Operator | Duration | Notes |
| Holyhead (Wales) → Dublin | Irish Ferries, Stena Line | 2h 15m–3h 30m | Up to 10 daily sailings |
| Liverpool → Dublin | Stena Line | ~8h | Car passengers only |
| Cherbourg (France) → Dublin | Irish Ferries | ~19h | 3–5 sailings/week |
| Douglas (Isle of Man) → Dublin | Steam Packet | ~3h | Weekly service |
- Dublin Port is just 2.5 km from the city center, with public buses and taxis available.
By Train
While you can’t take a train into Dublin from abroad, Ireland’s rail network makes it easy to reach Dublin from other Irish cities:
| Route | Duration | Station |
| Cork → Dublin | ~2h 50m | Heuston Station |
| Galway → Dublin | ~2h 30m | Heuston Station |
| Belfast → Dublin | ~2h | Connolly Station (Enterprise service) |
| Limerick → Dublin | ~2h 45m | Heuston Station |
- Two main stations:
- Heuston Station: West & southwest routes (Cork, Galway, Limerick).
- Connolly Station: North & east routes (Belfast, Sligo, Wexford).
- DART & Luas: Local train and tram services for getting around Dublin.
Visit Dublin and may be you will fall in love with it too. A vibrant, ancient city totally in the present. The engine that drives the Republic of Ireland. So much to enjoy and see in the Emerald Isle – music, history, pubs, art and the wonderful warm people. “Erin go bragh”
About the Author –
James Carey is an avid world traveler, blogger, writer and award-winning theater and film director based in Atlanta GA. He writes about travel worldwide, entertainment, and lifestyles. You can find out more about him at his personal websites listed below.
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