Regina Giovanna Bath: A Hidden Gem in Sorrento

Outside the town of Sorrento, Italy, the Gateway to the famous Amalfi Coast, is a hidden natural swimming pool. It has a natural arch that leads out to the sea. This is the secret bathing place of the Queen of Napoli, also known locally as “Bagni della Regina Giovanna”. Translated this means “Queen Joanna’s Baths”. It refers to a natural pool in Sorrento, Italy, named after Giovanna d’Angiò, a queen of Naples in the 14th century. It’s a beautiful and romantic protected cove. You can understand why the Queen of Naples would come here to relax and have fun in the sun. Visiting the Regina Giovanna Bath in Sorrento, Italy will reveal many such hidden gems.

Cliffs for swimming and fishing at Cape Sorrento

It was a moderately warm but drizzly day in Sorrento where I was staying for a few days as I toured around Italy. I had already walked all over the city, eating amazing Italian food, taking a wild bus ride along the cliffs of the Amalfi coast to Positano. Needing something to do on this gray day, I had heard of Queen Giovanna’s bathing pool in Sorrento Italy. So I decided to visit Bagni della Regina Giovanna and see it for myself.

The Queen’s Secret Pool

The swimming hole of Queen Giovanna is not actually a secret today. Bagni della Regina Giovanna is quite a famous tourist attraction during the summer months along the Amalfi coast because of its wonderful views of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. The cliffs and the swimming are also big attractions. This spot along the Cape of Sorrento has been a popular destination for the rich and famous since the start of the Roman Empire. At one time there was an old Roman temple here (I do not know which God or Goddess it was for). Therefore, it has been an important place since before the birth of Christ.

The ruins of a sprawling Roman villa called – Villa Pollio Felice – dating from the 1st century BC still stands and can be visited. You can go down into the foundations of this Roman villa and hang out if you want. Many people do, as evidence from the graffiti-covered walls, the empty beer cans and wine bottles, and the odor of weed that lingers in the air. The original owner of this Roman villa could have never imagined that what is basically his basement would become a party place over 2000 years later.

Archeological Park

The area around Bagni Regina Giovanna (or translated to Queen Giovanna Baths) is an archeological site and park. However, in true Italian style, it is not protected like an American archeological site. It is a secluded spot located off the beaten path. There is no supervision or guard on duty, so you can do whatever you want here on the cliffs above the bay. You are free to wander around, swim or sunbathe, fish, have a picnic or cliff dive if you want. Yet, you must be careful because the paths are very rocky, and some are in disrepair. It is easy to slip and fall to the rocks below. A staircase leads down to the pool, which is shallow and perfect for swimming. When you’re in Sorrento Italy, these pools are definitely a place you should explore.

Tips for a Memorable Visit

Footwear and Swimming Gear: Wear sturdy sneakers for the walk and hike. If you plan to swim, bring water shoes to navigate the rocky beach comfortably.
Pack Essentials: The area is rustic, so you’ll want to bring towels, ample water, and plenty of sunscreen. Remember, there are no facilities or shade, so prepare accordingly.
Dining and Refreshments: After exploring, consider visiting a local spot for a bite. It’s a great family-owned place perfect for relaxing with a drink and enjoying the view.
Keep these tips in mind to ensure your visit is as enjoyable and comfortable as possible.

Route to the Baths of Queen Giovanna from Marina Grande

The baths and ruins are easily reached by cab or bus with a short walk and climb. You can reach the road by cab for about 20 euros from city center or you can also hop a bus here as well. There is a store where you can buy water, sandwiches, and basic supplies very close to the bus stop.

Start Your Journey on Via Capo

Begin your adventure at Via Capo. This street serves as the main artery on your path to the Baths of Queen Giovanna.

Step 1: Follow Via Capo

Continue walking along Via Capo. Keep heading straight, staying vigilant and observing your surroundings to soak in the scenic views.

Step 2: Turn Onto Traversa Punta Capo

When you reach the intersection with Traversa Punta Capo, walk a few yards along Taversa Punta Capo and off to the right you will see what looks like an old Roman road with high walls along each side. You will follow the road down towards the Bay for about 20 minutes, and make sure you take good walking shoes.

You will be passing old villas and homes near Bagni della Regina Giovanna. Some are lived in, and several are not. However, on the other side of the walls are olive and lemon groves that seem to have been farmed for centuries.

The climb back up by this road can be tiring because it is uphill all the way. Thus, you need to be in decent shape or take your time. The road is wide enough for a small car or truck to pass by. The road is very old. It is paved but rough walking in many places like many other roads in Sorrento, Italy.

Step 3: Navigate the Coastal Path

Traverse the short coastal path that greets you. This segment of the journey is not just a connection but an experience, offering stunning glimpses of the coastline.

Step 4: Descend the Steep Staircase

You will eventually come to a staircase that will take you down into the park area. Carefully make your way downwards, keeping an eye on your footing. The trails in this area are in rough shape and the stairs down to the pool look unsteady. However, they seemed safe. The Villa ruins are here with its sweeping views, and you can sneak down into the foundations if you want. You can make your way along a path that leads to a stony beach for swimming in the bay. Alternatively, you can take another staircase down to the bathing pool. I was here in November, so it was not crowded at all, and it was cool. During the summer months it will be much warmer and much more crowded. Thus, just follow the people.

Helpful Tips:

Use Google Maps: This invaluable tool can guide you with real-time navigation and updates.
Engage with Locals: Don’t hesitate to ask locals for directions. Their insights and guidance can further enrich your journey.

Who was the Queen of Naples?

Regina Giovanna or Joanna (1326–1382) was a legend before her time. She inherited the kingdom of Napoli from her grandfather at 17 years old. This was during the time when it was extremely rare for a queen to be the ruler of any Kingdom. It was assumed by everyone that she would give up her authority to her husband as soon as she married. Her first marriage took place when she was seven years old. She married her cousin from Hungary who was six years old. His name was Andrew and of course they did not consummate their marriage until she was 18.

Giovanna was smart and ambitious. She spent most of her life defending her right to be queen from all the medieval men who kept trying to take her throne. Here’s your rewritten version without passive voice:

She married four times, lost both of her children, and fought to protect her throne from the Pope, her Hungarian relatives, and her own family members, all determined to overthrow her.

Despite male dominance and an entire political system working against her, she ruled for over 40 years. Eventually, a Hungarian relative betrayed her, invaded Napoli, stormed her castle, captured her, and executed her.

Her Refuge

Giovanna’s legacy does not center on her fierce determination to rule. Instead, history fixates on the legends that paint her as a murderer, a ruthless leader, a scandalous woman, and an embodiment of bad behavior. Whoever she was and whatever she did, it is no wonder that because of all the political intrigue and drama that took place in her palace, she needed a place to get away to. That place was this secretive but beautiful protective cove which allowed her to escape the worries and cares of ruling Napoli. According to legend, the Queen spent much of her time at these baths where she and her ladies-in-waiting waded around the waters with their various lovers. Call it scandalous, or call it sexy. Either way, this paradise stays, and today the Queen is honored in her favorite place near Sorrento Italy by thousands of visitors each year.