PortFringe was over and we were on to the next part of our Maine excursion. We pulled out of Portland in our rental car after saying goodbye to our wonderful hosts, Laurie and Ross. We then headed for Mt. Desert Island. Mt. Desert might be better known to you as Bar Harbor. It is also known as Acadia National Park which are located on the very large island off the coast of Maine.
“Going Down East” typically refers to traveling to the easternmost coastal region of Maine, also known as Downeast Maine. This phrase originated from nautical terminology in the 1700s, referring to the direction ships sailed from major ports like Boston downwind and towards the east. The region is characterized by its rocky coastline, scenic harbors, and proximity to Acadia National Park.
Arriving in Bar Harbor
We were early in the season for Maine tourism. Consequently, the traffic on Highway 1 as you drove north up the coast was not too bad. We made decent time. We stopped for lunch in Camden and walked around. Camden is a pretty little town, but very touristy and crowded.
We turned off the 1 to Highway 3 at Ellsworth. In about 16 to 18 miles, we took the bridge over to Mt. Desert Island and headed to our hotel. The hotel is the High Seas Motel on Highway 3 on the outskirts of Bar Harbor. It’s a very reasonably priced, clean family-run motel with a heated pool in summer. There is morning coffee. Additionally, there is an open kitchen area with a microwave open from 7 AM to 10 PM. There is also a coin laundry on the premises for the guests.
After settling in and getting unpacked, we headed for Bar Harbor about 3PM. Bar Harbor is located along Maine’s Frenchman Bay. It serves as the gateway to the mountains and cliffs of neighboring Acadia National Park. Towering over the park, Cadillac Mountain has trails and views of the town, the bay, and the Cranberry Islands. From the town pier, the Shore Path winds along the bay overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the Porcupine Islands, and several of the remaining grand houses of the Gilded Age building craze in the 1890’s.
Relationship of Acadia National Park to Mt. Desert Island
Here I will take a moment to comment on the National Park and its relationship to the island. Acadia National Park covers much of Mt. Desert, but there are many selections of the island that are purely residential. When you arrive on the island, you are encouraged to buy a $40 pass. This pass allows you to travel and park in the National Park.
But to be honest, we were on the island and in the National Park everyday. We were never stopped or given a ticket. I am not advocating not supporting the National Park Service. Nevertheless, it is not absolutely necessary to buy a Park Pass in all cases. You may run the risk of getting a parking ticket from the Park Service. Yet, there are so many out-of-state people living on the island during the summer. It is almost impossible to keep track of all the cars and knowing who is a part-time resident or a park visitor. That said, I would encourage to support the work of the National Park Service and buy a pass.
Brief History of Bar Harbor
The town of Bar Harbor was founded on the northeast shore of Mount Desert Island, which the Wabanaki Indians knew as Pemetic, meaning “range of mountains” or “mountains seen at a distance.” The Wabanaki seasonally fished, hunted, and gathered berries, clams, and other shellfish in the area. They spoke of Bar Harbor as Man-es-ayd’ik (“clam-gathering place”) or Ah-bays’auk (“clambake place”), leaving great piles of shells as evidence of this abundance.
In early September 1604, French explorer Samuel de Champlain ran aground on a rock ledge believed to be just off Otter Cliffs. When he came ashore to repair his boat, he met local natives. Champlain named the island Isles des Monts Deserts, which means “island of barren mountains”—now called Mount Desert Island, the largest in Maine. The community was first settled by Europeans in 1763 by Israel Higgins and John Thomas and incorporated on February 23, 1796 as Eden, after Sir Richard Eden, an English statesman.
In the 1840s, its rugged maritime scenery attracted the Hudson River School and Luminism artists Thomas Cole, Frederic Edwin Church, William Hart, and Fitz Henry Lane. Inspired by their paintings, journalists, sportsmen, and “rusticators” followed. Agamont House, the first hotel in Eden, was established in 1855 by Tobias Roberts. Birch Point, the first summer estate, was built in 1868 by Alpheus Hardy.
The Gilded Age Bar Harbor
By 1880, there were 30 hotels, and tourists were arriving by train and ferry to the Gilded Age resort. This would rival Newport, Rhode Island. The rich and famous tried to outdo each other with entertaining and estates. They often hired landscape gardener and landscape architect Beatrix Farrand, a resident at the local Reef Point Estate, to design their gardens. A glimpse of their lifestyles was available from the Shore Path. This walkway skirts waterfront lawns. Yachting, garden parties at the Pot & Kettle Club, and carriage rides up Cadillac Mountain were popular diversions. Others enjoyed horse-racing at Robin Hood Park-Morrell Park. Many of these grand estates and homes were burned down in a massive fire that raged in the town in 1947.
On March 3, 1918, Eden was renamed Bar Harbor, after the sand and gravel bar visible at low tide. This bar leads across to Bar Island and forms the rear of the harbor. The name would become synonymous with elite wealth. It was the birthplace of vice-president Nelson Rockefeller on July 8, 1908.
Many influential people have called Bar Harbor home for at least part of the year. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., son of John D. Rockefeller of Standard Oil Co., donated about one-third of the land in Acadia National Park. He also built the carriage roads used for hiking and biking. J. P. Morgan owned a house that is adjacent to Bar Harbor. Cornelius Vanderbilt built cottages in Bar Harbor. The Astor family owned hotels and cottages in Bar Harbor and the surrounding areas. The co-founder and CEO of Burt’s Bees, Roxanne Quimby, has a home near Bar Harbor. Martha Stewart has also been known to frequent Mount Desert Island and been seen in Bar Harbor.
Shore Path
We spent the late afternoon and early evening exploring the small streets of Bar Harbor and walked along the Shore Path (described above). We saw what remains of the houses that, at one time, rivaled Newport Beach in Rhode Island. They served as a playground for the super-wealthy. The walk starts at Argamont Park. It moves along the shore till it reaches Wayman Lane.
There are several yacht tours of the harbor and islands, some even on large sailing yachts. All tours dock and leave from the terminal next to Argamont Park. Many of the large old homes have been converted into hotels, B&B’s, and restaurants. They all have wonderful views of the harbor. And of course, there are tourists, t-shirt shops, and sports bars everywhere.
We opted for dinner at a natural food store on Main Street. However, there are eateries of every variety to choose from, all serving lobster (especially lobster rolls), haddock, and salmon.
After the walk and dinner, we returned to our hotel. We enjoyed a bottle of wine and some time in the heated pool before the mosquitoes got too bad. The next day was Monday. It was to be part 1 of two days in Acadia.
Where to Stay in Bar Harbor
Bar Harbor offers a charming mix of waterfront resorts, historic inns, and cozy boutique hotels. Here are some standout options to consider:
🌊 Bar Harbor Inn & Spa – A bayside gem with free breakfast, waterfront dining, a spa, and a gym. Ideal for a relaxing retreat. Explore more
🎾 Holiday Inn Resort Bar Harbor – Acadia Natl Park by IHG – A resort-style stay with tennis courts, boat docking, and multiple dining options. View details
🏛️ Bar Harbor Grand Hotel – A replica 19th-century mansion offering traditional rooms, continental breakfast, and an outdoor pool. Check it out
🌿 The Inn on Mount Desert – A relaxed guesthouse with harbor views, garden space, and a fire pit. See more
🏡 Acadia Hotel – Downtown – A modernized 1884 home with casual rooms and a wraparound porch, right in the heart of town. Discover it
🏖️ Atlantic Oceanside Hotel & Event Center – A laid-back resort with a private beach, spa, and both indoor and outdoor pools. Learn more
☕ Days Inn by Wyndham Bar Harbor – A budget-friendly option with complimentary breakfast, Wi-Fi, and parking. Details here
🔥 Bar Harbor Manor – Elegant rooms and suites with free Wi-Fi and a cozy fireplace sitting room. Visit site
Where to Eat in Bar Harbor
Bar Harbor’s dining scene is a delightful mix of fresh seafood, quirky charm, and local flavor. Here are some standout spots to satisfy your appetite:
🦞 Geddy’s – A family-friendly favorite with chowder, lobster, and pie served in a lively setting filled with nautical kitsch. See menu
🎨 Galyn’s – Classic Maine seafood in a cozy Victorian-era house with art-lined walls and harbor views. Explore Galyn’s
🍔 Side Street Cafe – A cheerful spot for burgers, lobster dishes, and pub fare with a welcoming vibe. Check it out
🐔 Maine Chick – A newer gem offering affordable bites and late-night eats with a casual, modern feel. Visit Maine Chick
🇺🇸 Route 66 Restaurant – All-American comfort food served in a retro space packed with vintage collectibles. View Route 66
🥩 Testa’s Bar & Grill – Bi-level dining with seafood, steaks, and sandwiches just steps from the water. See Testa’s
🍟 Island Take Out – A top-rated takeout spot for quick bites like lobster rolls and fries, perfect for a picnic. Order ahead
🦐 Bar Harbor Lobster Pound – A beloved seafood shack serving fresh lobster, chowder, and grilled specialties. Explore Lobster Pound
Historical data from WikiPedia, Photos by James Carey
About the Author –
James Carey is an avid world traveler, blogger, writer and award-winning theater and film director based in Atlanta GA. He writes about travel worldwide, entertainment, and lifestyles. You can find out more about him at his personal websites listed below.
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